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Old 06-30-2010, 12:40 AM   #11
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I have a possible solution that doesnt use heat if you are interested.
What would that be?
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:02 AM   #12
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Some companies have cheapened their valves

Last edited by David Sheffield; 07-01-2010 at 02:01 PM..
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Old 06-30-2010, 01:51 AM   #13
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Some companies have cheapened their valves to the point where there is less materal/mass in the valve and it is easier to overheat it with a torch. I see some blue on the valve here and is it possible that the valve got too hot? I have seen a lot of problems with solder valves recently as the mass of the valve is less, so they overheat easier when soldering. Overheating can cause the seats to melt and the loctite that seals the end connector to fail. I am not saying anything here, but I do see blue color in several places on the ball valve. It may appear to some to be overheated due to the cheap valves that are being sold in this market place. If you want I can send you some information on some valves that are push in type and dont require a torch. I am new here and I dont want to violate the rules, but I will send you info if you email me at david@sk-automation.com/
I doubt many here would be interested in a sharkbite type of valve. They are more of a DIY thing not a plumber thing.
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Old 06-30-2010, 03:05 AM   #14
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It's been a long time since I've cooked a valve. The mip was soldered onto a section of copper, cooled and then installed into the valve. Just like I always do it. It didn't get hot enough to melt the teflon tape, let alone crack the brass. I am not interested in push on valves, thank you.








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Old 07-22-2010, 03:40 AM   #15
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I don't care what California says, lead makes eveything better!!
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