Originally Posted by Tankless

Shame shame. Now choke yourself. Lean forward and choke yourself!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Nf1MK7lts#t=4m21s

Originally Posted by Tankless

So here's a little tip I tell my clients to put a smile on their face when I am either selling the system or showing them how everything works. The remote, I set mine at 125, that gives me about an 85-15 for hot and cold. However if my kid is taking too long I just start dropping the temp until she gets the hint to get her butt out. Sometimes she will tough it out at 110, then I just hit power and go about my day!! Works well, BUT....careful who you tell that to, they can do it right back to you. You will notice over the next week(s) the subtle differences between tanked and tankless...not bad, just a little different. Depending on your house pressure you may notice little temp fluxuations when a WC is flushed or someone runs a lav. The unit you got has that nice little blue Energy Star sticker on it. The units don't respond as fast as they used to, to this sort of thing. It is a software reprogram that makes the unit more gradual in temp compensations and adjustments but a requirement for that little blue sticker. It is what it is and all of them are like that now.

Put a little bit of greese on the two SS screws that attach the vent cap (VC-4) on there. Should you ever need to pull the cap to inspect the heat exchanger those screws freeze up good and it's a total PITA to get them out.

It is nice knowing that no matter how many loads of laundry have been done or if the DW is going, you have as much hot water as you want.

Whatever your water hardness is, keep the grains below 10 and you won't need to service it for a good two years. Enjoy!

Originally Posted by Tankless

For the record, this is hands down one of my most favorite parts to a movie.

"Well any F-ing time sweetheart"

Originally Posted by ROCKSTARPLUMBER

I noticed in the shower tonight, the hot water felt Cleaner than anyshower i have ever had. If you catch what I mean about cleaner, not as hard. not that milky white color that tanked hot water looks like in a glass. Maintained tempature flawlessly. Was not adjusting the valve every few minutes to make up temp loss. having one of my own to use and experience will really boost some more of my knowledge of the product when explaining the benifits to a potential cusotmer.

Originally Posted by ROCKSTARPLUMBER

I noticed in the shower tonight, the hot water felt Cleaner than anyshower i have ever had. If you catch what I mean about cleaner, not as hard. not that milky white color that tanked hot water looks like in a glass. Maintained tempature flawlessly. Was not adjusting the valve every few minutes to make up temp loss. having one of my own to use and experience will really boost some more of my knowledge of the product when explaining the benifits to a potential cusotmer.

Originally Posted by Protech

WTF!?!?

You wanna run that by me again?

Originally Posted by Tankless

You are experiencing a big difference with this. When the water is heated in the exchanger the calcium solidifies. Two things cause this....the temp and the hardness or amount of calcium in the water. With a softener the calcium is attracted to the resin in a sodium ion exchange thus resulting in a very low or zero count of calcium. Tankless heat exchangers and servo valves like this, a lot. In a tanked heater the same thing happends BUT that now solidified calcium falls to the bottom of the tank and starts rotting it out. I don't know if it's the erosion or the just the calcium eating away at the steel but the net result is the same.

A good test to see if you have really hard water (other than testing) is crank up your heater to like 140-150 and run hot water out of a lav for 5 - 10 min. Pull the screen and look for NEW deposits. Drop the temp back down to 120 and do the same, look for a difference in deposits.

Originally Posted by ROCKSTARPLUMBER

Wut, wutta i say? You talkun to me?

Originally Posted by Protech

Again, what in the world are you talking about?!?!

Ion exchange resin remove ions from the water via a single displacement reaction. Calcium scale forming on a heat exchanger is due to ions with a negative solubility constant crashing out of solution and forming crystals on seed surfaces. They are in no way the same. In fact, the fact was designed to prevent the second.

This thread just turned into a tankless water heater cult ritual or something........