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Old 02-08-2010, 01:17 AM   #41
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What would it cost you to pay a plumber to come replace a tanked heater? THAN look at your numbers.

RSP.....NO ROMEX IN CONDUIT, please.
Huh? Im lost on that one? explain and why, im all for learning buddy. BTW, i couldn't believe the cost of that VC-3.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:19 AM   #42
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Is that a 1/2" t&p?








Paul
Uh Huh.
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Old 02-08-2010, 01:29 AM   #43
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Uh Huh.
Shame shame. Now choke yourself. Lean forward and choke yourself!!!



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Old 02-08-2010, 01:39 AM   #44
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Huh? Im lost on that one? explain and why, im all for learning buddy. BTW, i couldn't believe the cost of that VC-3.

Should have been around 100 bucks I think. That shyit is really expensive.

Romex, you have it ran through the flex between the snap switch and the unit as your means of disconnect, which is correct. But the style of wire inside that flex is wrong. You want THHN or the like. Code reads no romex inside conduit. Rigid, EMT, PVC or any kind of conduit shall not have romex within. Is it a big deal? God no, just one simple rule. Has to do with the romex and moisture. Go to your fav box store and buy a yard of 14 gauge white - black - and green
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:58 AM   #45
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No, I mean I thought it was reasonable, i was thinking it was going to be in the 2-3 hundred range. Wuts wrong with the 1/2" t&P? Should be fine for the size of the water heater.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:19 PM   #46
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http://www.designerplumbing.com/store/NORITZ07.html

This is a cheap price.
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Old 02-08-2010, 02:23 PM   #47
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No, I mean I thought it was reasonable, i was thinking it was going to be in the 2-3 hundred range. Wuts wrong with the 1/2" t&P? Should be fine for the size of the water heater.

This is a rare one because it isn't something that's ever come up for me so I've never had to consider it. Just seems wrong.

According to UPC (and I'm sure IPC as well), a discharge line from a t&p can't decrease in size. The t&p you used looks like it has 1/2" male threads but has 3/4" female threads. So, you'll have a full size 3/4" discharge line and you've got a 1/2" line feeding it, so no decrease in size there. I don't know if this specifically is mentioned in the code but I'd use a regular 3/4" valve instead so it's all full size. It seems like the t&p should be fed with the same size pipe as the fixture it's serving. Capiche?





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Old 02-08-2010, 07:01 PM   #48
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It's an electrician thing. You would normally not run NM cable(romex) in conduit. THHN conductors are usually used in that situation instead of NM cable. Between you, me and the rest on PZ it will work just fine though.

Conductors are de-rated when they are bundled or encased. In theory, by having them encased in an NM sheath and then inside of conduit they are over insulated and could over heat. Like I said though, I wouldn't let it keep me up at night.

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Huh? Im lost on that one? explain and why, im all for learning buddy. BTW, i couldn't believe the cost of that VC-3.

Last edited by Protech; 02-08-2010 at 07:04 PM..
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:27 PM   #49
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Gas man came today. Stupid SOB was suppost to call me before he got here. WIfe came home from picking up kids from school, and saw that the gas man had already set the tank, dug and ran the line, and was making his connections. Problem was, HE WAS SUPPOST TO CALL ME FIRST. had the tank in plain view of the drive way, blockin the gate to the back yard. Wife told him, um, sir, that can go there, its suppost to go in the back yard.

Wife said the guy started mumblin, grabbed a bunch of **** off the tank, and threw it accross the driveway. SHe said she just looked at him and said, um kay. Went inside and called RSP.

RSP called the gas company, and asked what the hell was going on , and why i was not called first. Secratary said it was her fault, she told him to stick the tank whereever. After that, i bit my tounge about the guys attitude, called the wife, talked to the guy, had a $20.00 tip waiting on him when he was throught.

I know where that guys aggression came from, we have all been there many times, boss's or secratarys screwin something up, causeing more work for us in the feild. Plus, I know how I would feel if I knew one of my guys acted like that in the feild, in front of a female customer holding a baby no less.

Dont worry gas man, I forgive you. Oh, and the NORTITZ IS FREAKIN AWESOME.

have a date with the shower in about an hr, may take a nice long one.
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:42 PM   #50
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So here's a little tip I tell my clients to put a smile on their face when I am either selling the system or showing them how everything works. The remote, I set mine at 125, that gives me about an 85-15 for hot and cold. However if my kid is taking too long I just start dropping the temp until she gets the hint to get her butt out. Sometimes she will tough it out at 110, then I just hit power and go about my day!! Works well, BUT....careful who you tell that to, they can do it right back to you. You will notice over the next week(s) the subtle differences between tanked and tankless...not bad, just a little different. Depending on your house pressure you may notice little temp fluxuations when a WC is flushed or someone runs a lav. The unit you got has that nice little blue Energy Star sticker on it. The units don't respond as fast as they used to, to this sort of thing. It is a software reprogram that makes the unit more gradual in temp compensations and adjustments but a requirement for that little blue sticker. It is what it is and all of them are like that now.

Put a little bit of greese on the two SS screws that attach the vent cap (VC-4) on there. Should you ever need to pull the cap to inspect the heat exchanger those screws freeze up good and it's a total PITA to get them out.

It is nice knowing that no matter how many loads of laundry have been done or if the DW is going, you have as much hot water as you want.

Whatever your water hardness is, keep the grains below 10 and you won't need to service it for a good two years. Enjoy!
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