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Old 06-16-2009, 09:19 PM   #1
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Does anyone know a link to where good rinnai information is. RSP got invited to bid on changing out a 100gl boiler at a local resturant here in tally, and i wann pitch two rinnai s in series, but this is something that RSP have never done. I know that there is one controller for both rinnai s.
So lets here it, I know its coming!!
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:39 PM   #2
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Get you local Rinnai rep involved, it's part of their job, I have done a few restaraunts with multiple tankless units, using Takagi instead of Rinnai, and always had the rep help spec the units and the controls, it makes a big difference if a warranty issue comes up after the installation is done.
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:46 PM   #3
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Yea, that was my plan, just wanted some homework to be prepared for it. Found the suppliers card in my rinnai folder. Ill be calling him tomorrow. Im sure he will love to come to this reasturant. I would say which national chain it is, but will wait till i have a signed contract. The scenery is going to be awesome!
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:47 PM   #4
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I agree with Killer. I did a job to replace a 80 gallon water heater at a Fire Station. I contacted the tech dept at Rinnai and they designed the system.
As Killer said, your responsibility for future problems with the operation will be reduced If the design is from Rinnai.

They are happy to help.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:01 PM   #5
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I also agree with Killer. Complex systems need a lot of attention to detail to ensure proper performance and longevity. Get the manuals and start reading pal. I have been involved on a bunch of complex jobs and there is a bit of experience that WILL prove to be helpful to be accurate and making the bid competitive. Restaurants can be really hard on systems....recirc is running 24/7 - hi flow rates need to be had....proper temps to the dishwashers. I recommend isolating the DW on it's own tankless system(s) for a few reasons, but mainly I don't like the idea of over heating to temper back down for the lavs - kitchen sinks - ...etc...Tempering valves can fail and it is really inefficient on the units and at those higher temps there is a lot more wear and tear at the higher temps....read the performance / energy consumption up at 170 degrees...makes no sense, but designers who don't completely understand still design it like a tanked system. Expect the warranty to be a lot shorter on these commercial units, sell them a service contract on the system too. As you know no hot water = customers eat for free and need to leave. I consulted on a job where the restaurant went 5 days without hot water and they got fined 10 grand from the health dept. Service contract.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:18 PM   #6
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I hoot ya. You need to go get all the gpm and temp of the dishwasher's potable water. Its all about demand. Also the units cannot run continuosly for over an hour or they will shut down and flash the service code. If your not mounting them outside or on an outside wall....better figure in all that expensive stainless pipe. They run about 180,000 btu's of gas when at full bore so the gas line will probably need to be upgraded and possibly the gas meter itself so consult the gas company too.. The manuals all list the techincal data based on PROPANE FUEL for its GPM delivery. We always use natural gas here,so we hafta account for that difference in performance. Usually they use a small heater for the bathrooms around here and no tempering valve. The dishwashers around here are usually chemical based and require 160 degree water.
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:24 AM   #7
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[quote=TheMaster;45656]Also the units cannot run continuosly for over an hour or they will shut down and flash the service code.quote]


Ummm, pssst here's a secret.....if you install them the way the manufacturer wants it, they run just fine. Only when you install them poorly will they error out like that.

RSP, if it was me, Noritz hands down...Rinnai is a not too distant second.

You should look into the condensing units.....much more efficient, PVC venting and good flow rates.
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:48 AM   #8
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[quote=Tankless;45704]
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMaster View Post
Also the units cannot run continuosly for over an hour or they will shut down and flash the service code.quote]


Ummm, pssst here's a secret.....if you install them the way the manufacturer wants it, they run just fine. Only when you install them poorly will they error out like that.

RSP, if it was me, Noritz hands down...Rinnai is a not too distant second.

You should look into the condensing units.....much more efficient, PVC venting and good flow rates.
UMMMM PSSST Hey the factory says if they are undersized then hey PSSSTTT they will error. Most things work if installed like the manufacturer wants. Whats your point? Noritz by the way put out a dvd on their tankless water heaters and then contradicted that information in emails to me and I called them out on it. They finally admited the video was wrong. it ws about installing the drip tee fitting in the vent line. They could make up there mind if it was needed in my install or not. The vent pipe was about 6' long total out the roof. The rep couldn't get the tee for two weeks. The rep gave the homeowner the video so now the homeowners asking questions about the condensate tee and if it needs to be installed. MY point is the FACTORY cannot even keep up with its own information and dont under size the heaters

Last edited by TheMaster; 06-17-2009 at 04:06 AM.. Reason: More information
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:28 AM   #9
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I am not going to get into a pissing match with you. Based on what you stated I know real world experience is limited....after you have done over 300 of these things come talk to me. And yes the tee needs to be installed, part # DTV4, retails for around 30 bucks, available at any supply house that's worth their weight.

Ya know what, just for Shyits and giggles, can you tell me the error code a unit will flash if it is undersized please?
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankless View Post
I am not going to get into a pissing match with you. Based on what you stated I know real world experience is limited....after you have done over 300 of these things come talk to me. And yes the tee needs to be installed, part # DTV4, retails for around 30 bucks, available at any supply house that's worth their weight.

Ya know what, just for Shyits and giggles, can you tell me the error code a unit will flash if it is undersized please?
There is not error code for an undersized tankless only a code if it runs too long and I have better things to do than memorize codes i can google from my blackberry...I do not need to recite error codes.Tell Noritz it needs the condensate tee.....The video said it does.....tech support said if its 6' or under on the vertical in a warm climate its not needed. Like I said they cant make their mind up. Those pocket protector clowns at Noritz tech support made idiots of themselves and the rep. and they couldn't supply the product so they decided it wasn't needed. Typical RUSH TO MARKET PRODUCT. Like I said i called them out on the video because the rep was talkin smack and the tech support guys agreed the DVD was wrong! Some nerd telling you about the vent system....watch the video dont take my word for it. Those jerks didn't make the vertical condensate tee yet...only the horizontal one and they said it was not needed. Then they came out with the vertical tee. Buncha jerks! And if anybody from Noritz would like to talk about it......please feel free to speak up.

Last edited by TheMaster; 06-17-2009 at 04:55 AM..
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