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Old 09-01-2010, 09:06 PM   #11
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Should be a pretty straightforward diagnosis. Get/make a test port at or near the meter (5/8" meter should be sufficient for most single family bungalows). Test the static pressure (no water running) and note it. Then check dynamic pressure with as much water running as possible (ie: bathtub and/or hosebibs). A few lbs difference is expected.

1: if supply pressure is very low (less than 30 lbs) then booster pump! But check with the municipal system ppl to see if this is expected for this address. Note: unless a reducing valve is installed between the curb and you then the static pressure test will show you the actual mains pressure minus the altitude difference between your guage and the main.

2: if the static pressure is acceptable but the dynamic pressure is very low then you have an obstruction in the line. kinked pipe, partially closed valve, etc

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Old 09-01-2010, 09:10 PM   #12
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All good replies.

1. Wonder why purveyor pressure is so low.
2. Is there a backflow in the system? (Creates loss of pressure)
3. Is the house elevated significantly above the main?
4. Buried water service might be kinked or restricted.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:08 PM   #13
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All good responses, I will take into consideration. I have every intention of checking the pressures before I get to far into the job.

The very first thing I will do is pull the meter and verify the incoming pressures.

Now I know that I should never take the word of a homeowner, but according to the homeowner they have checked this stuff out, at least the static. They did have someone read pressures at the exterior faucets, and they were that same.

Well anyway, I will give an update.

Does anyone ever size building piping according to the charts in the code book? For example, when doing sizing exercises, sometimes the building main, needed to be as much as 1/1/4 inch, etc....
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indie View Post
Does anyone ever size building piping according to the charts in the code book? For example, when doing sizing exercises, sometimes the building main, needed to be as much as 1/1/4 inch, etc....
Yes. Sometimes you get surprised!

I actually had to read my codebook today to size the venting in a house! Sure enough, the one extra sink the HO added required me to step up the venting to 2 inch for everything that it was collecting.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:30 PM   #15
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Watch out with the bigger meter.......the water companies around here charge a monthly premium for a larger than 5/8" meter. IIRC 30$ a month.

Are you sure there are no check valves in the line any were.

I replaced a 1/2" swing check that was mounted vertically and was siezed and only open about 1/4 the way, cut it out and replaced problem solved. cant all be easy.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:28 AM   #16
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Booster Pump!
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Old 09-03-2010, 09:40 PM   #17
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The first thing you have to determine is if you have a pressure or volume problem or a combination of the two. Plumbing 101

99.9999999999999999999999999% IT'S NOT the size of the 5/8 meter or the softener lines!!

If you upgrade that and bill the customer and they still have the same problem you aint gonna be too popular.
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:34 PM   #18
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Default grunfos pressure increasing pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by Indie View Post
I looked at a job and have some re-pipe lined up to attempt to correct a pressure/volume problem.

In this home there is a 3/4 copper line supplying water to the house. The water then passes through a 5/8 meter, and then goes back into 3/4 copper. The copper is then transitioned to 3/4 pex, and run through a softener.

Now, according to the city, (which I have not verified) the pressure out in this addition is low, 25 P.S.I. according to the homeowner, who put a gauge on the outside faucet. This seems highly unlikely, but one cannot deny that the pressure throughout the house is uncomfortably low. Putting softener in bypass does not do anything noticeable.

I'm going to start by trying to get a larger meter from the city, then run 1" copper to and from softener, and also measure what is coming out of supply line.

What are your thoughts?
put this pump in it willgive u anadded 65 psi. then i know this sounds like an oxymoron then a pressure reducing valve 65& 25= 90psi. to much regulate to 40psi. good luck
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Old 09-06-2010, 08:37 PM   #19
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Default dats a good call

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Originally Posted by PLUMBER_BILL View Post
If you would find a shut curb valve ... check with the city or authority.
Sometimes they shut them down to 1 gal a minute for non-payment of water bills. You touch their valve and you might get your ass in slam.
Here they want to shut off and turn on their valves. The authority is responsible from the curb to th main. I've seen em where they forgot to turn on the corp cock all the way.
aqua can b a mofo!!!!!
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