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#1 |
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AAAAAAAAHHHHH!!!
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I looked at a job and have some re-pipe lined up to attempt to correct a pressure/volume problem.
In this home there is a 3/4 copper line supplying water to the house. The water then passes through a 5/8 meter, and then goes back into 3/4 copper. The copper is then transitioned to 3/4 pex, and run through a softener. Now, according to the city, (which I have not verified) the pressure out in this addition is low, 25 P.S.I. according to the homeowner, who put a gauge on the outside faucet. This seems highly unlikely, but one cannot deny that the pressure throughout the house is uncomfortably low. Putting softener in bypass does not do anything noticeable. I'm going to start by trying to get a larger meter from the city, then run 1" copper to and from softener, and also measure what is coming out of supply line. What are your thoughts? |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
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I would check it at the meter and see what you have to start with. Pressure is constant, whether the the line is 1/2 inch or 1 inch.
We have a neighborhood that sits on top a hill and the pressure is only 28 psi. We have added booster pumps to several of the homes up there. |
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#4 | ||
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The Old (antique) Master
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Quote:
Quote:
Wow before I would spend a lot of time on this couple of questions. 1 - What is the set back of the house from the curb? Friction loss in a 3/4 line over 100' long can be pretty severe. 2 - What does the neighbors presure read on both sides and across the street? Consider a restriction in the line [rock or kink !! 3 - Pehaps a booster system is in order.
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Bill Parr LMP www.parrsplumbing.com click on ... A little of this and a little of that |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to PLUMBER_BILL For This Useful Post: | pauliplumber (09-01-2010) |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
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Open the main valve all the way
![]() On a serious note. Is pressure the issue, or volume? Check the curb stop. Had 'em where they were not all the way open. Remove the main control valve, and check for obstructions, i.e. stones. (I would highly recomend turning off the curb stop, first.) Flush the main into a bucket with the valve removed.
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RealLivePlumber You can make it happen, you can watch it happen, or you can wonder wtf happened. Phil Harris 2009 |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to RealLivePlumber For This Useful Post: | Richard Hilliard (09-01-2010) |
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#6 | |
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The Old (antique) Master
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Quote:
Sometimes they shut them down to 1 gal a minute for non-payment of water bills. You touch their valve and you might get your ass in slam. Here they want to shut off and turn on their valves. The authority is responsible from the curb to th main. I've seen em where they forgot to turn on the corp cock all the way.
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Bill Parr LMP www.parrsplumbing.com click on ... A little of this and a little of that |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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You cant check static pressure and tell anything...it will creep up....you have to have a port near the guage and compare apples....in other words...hose bib, washing machine box, hose bib at addition if possible or configure one ata sink.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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5/8 meter doesnt matter if pipes are open...you lose a lb. or three, city pressure should be around 60 or more......depending on the run the diff on 3/4 to 1" is not great especially if its straight run..
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#9 |
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Senior Member
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When I check for pressure problems I check the hose bib nearest the main ....with a 1/4 in port open....then I check the neighbors....compare the drops ( of course after evaluationg age and material of the service..galv. etc)..then move to the problem location and record the drops....sometimes 30 plus lbs and then its clear about the piping..sort of.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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I am lucky living in Sarasota, Florida. Water meters are installed in the easement at the street and the meter is buried less than 12 inches. I can take the meter union apart and check volume or pressure at the meter. 25 psi is low why so low?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Richard Hilliard For This Useful Post: | Protech (09-01-2010) |
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