Plumbing Tips - Page 5 - Plumbing Zone

Protech · 11-19-2008, 06:08 PM

Water heater draining tips. These only work if it's at or above ground level. They work well for me because there are virtually no basements in Fla.

If you have a heater that wont drain, fish 1/2 pex down the cold port and pull a siphon. If you need to run long distance to a drainage point, couple your 20' pex together with shark bites. If it's a big tank you can remove the t/p and pull a second siphon from the hot port. If it's a huge tank and your just waiting around(new tank is already prefabbed and in position for swap) you can remove the upper element and pull another siphon using 3/4 pex.

If you have a shop vac and don't mind building a cheap rig:

materials: 3x 1 1/4 galvo nipples, 1 1/4 union, 1 1/4 threaded ball valve, 50-100' of thick plastic pipe sleeve or fire hose.

Install 2 nipples on the valve with a union on one with another nipple one the other end of the union. Hose clamp your sleeve/hose onto the union end.

If you need to drain a huge tank in a hurry, pull the lower element from the hydro locked heater with shop vac on and in hand(assuming the heater hasn't already flooded the place or there is no heater pan w/ working drain) to catch the little bit of water and thread your valve on(in the off position). Attach your hose via the union and let'er rip. Drains way faster than a heater pump and never needs impeller replacements or electricity(not so good at draining up hill though

).

If you have a heater in an attic or on a stand and don't have a helper to get it down: pull one or both elements and cut horizontally until you've cut it in halve. You'll need a good sawzall and a quality course metal blade. Take it down in pieces.

para1 · 11-19-2008, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ncplumber

I'm crazy about lavatory drains, haaate callbacks! so I put dope (Rectorseal T+2) on the top of the rubber cone washer, putty between the bottom of the washer and the friction washer, putty under the trim piece in the basin, dope on the threads at the trim piece and the tailpiece threads, and dope the beveled surface on all connections of the trap - tightening the middle nut first then the tailpiece connection then the wallpiece connection all hand tight first then a final +/- 1/8 turn with the channellocks.

Crazy, but I have almost zero leaks on drains.

All that effort and you still can't get it right everytime! Just kiddin bro.

ROTOR KING · 11-19-2008, 09:28 PM

Personally when ever i see silicone around a joint gives me the sighn of a plumber admitting defeat to a crap product.

pzmember · 11-19-2008, 09:40 PM

TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
3. REMOVE LID.
4. INSERT WATER KEY.
5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.

Redwood · 11-19-2008, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjcoleman

TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
3. REMOVE LID.
4. INSERT WATER KEY.
5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.

That's a good one but I'd just fire up "The Beast" drive on over in the dead of night, hook a tow strap on the outside hose bibb, drop the beast into 4 wheel low, and take back my materials...

Proud Plumber · 11-20-2008, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjcoleman

TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY.
1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT.
2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP.
3. REMOVE LID.
4. INSERT WATER KEY.
5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP.
6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX.
7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER.
8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.

hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber.

Protech · 11-20-2008, 01:55 PM

Sewer call customer training kit:

1 - 5 gallon bucket
1 - 1 gallon bucket
1 gallon of part “a” marine foam
1 gallon of part "b" marine foam
Funnel (optional)

step 1.
After failing to receive payment for cabling/jetting services retrieve kit
from truck and mix "a" and "b" thoroughly in 5 gallon bucket.

step 2.
Dispense in appropriate location(s). Replace cleanout caps and traps if applicable.

step 3.
After returning home, open beer of choice and consume. Log onto PZ and share with experience with friends.

DUNBAR PLUMBING · 11-21-2008, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proud Plumber

hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber.

That's an awesome idea and I know just exactly where I'm needed for this urinal repair right now.

DUNBAR PLUMBING · 11-21-2008, 01:53 AM

Here's one I did just tonight:

Drilled in two hose bibbs and when I went to drill the holes in the brick/mortar on this 100 year old historic home, it all went to powder when I drilled.

So...knowing even those adaptor kits to go wider to hit something solid wouldn't even work,

I went inside the house where I drilled through the band joist to get these in (18" hose bibbs) and drove copper wedges in to lock the bibbs in place,

then took a piece of 3/4" copper and hammered flat spots where it would lay on top of the copper tubes of the hose bibbs, sandclothed the tops where the flat piece of copper would lay, fluxed them up and soldered that pipe on top of the two hose bibbs, right against the band joist.

Between driving those copper wedges into those close tolerance holes along with that copper tube running across both of them, against the wood, nothing is going to let those bibbs pull out at this point.

There are other options I could of taken doing a board on the outside or large piece of aluminum plate, but the way I've done this from inside?

No signs on the outside that there was ever a problem.

The customer was very impressed with my idea and how it fixed the problem instantly with no chance of breaking free. I trust my solder joints completely.

I just told him to NEVER leave a hose hooked to these in the winter, it'll cost him big time.

I made fun of the plumbing in his house before I left, shouldn't do that before I get paid.

Redwood · 11-21-2008, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Proud Plumber

hydraulic cement is better for this application. it dries with in minutes, hardens under water also. I am told that hydraulic cement works well for urinal repairs. Particularly with bar owners that do not like to pay the plumber.

It also works well in toilets at the Ravimart where you got stiffed for a toilet auger job...

Go in after a heavy lunch at Aunt Chiladas...

Pour in the hydraulic cement then put a good power dump on top of it...
Take your time, hardens in 15 minutes...
Leave without flushing. Pressure assist with the siphon jet blocked...

Musta been Purdy!

I can't say how I know this...

11-19-2008, 06:08 PM	#41
Protech ٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Polk County, Florida Posts: 7,167 My Photos	Water heater draining tips. These only work if it's at or above ground level. They work well for me because there are virtually no basements in Fla. If you have a heater that wont drain, fish 1/2 pex down the cold port and pull a siphon. If you need to run long distance to a drainage point, couple your 20' pex together with shark bites. If it's a big tank you can remove the t/p and pull a second siphon from the hot port. If it's a huge tank and your just waiting around(new tank is already prefabbed and in position for swap) you can remove the upper element and pull another siphon using 3/4 pex. If you have a shop vac and don't mind building a cheap rig: materials: 3x 1 1/4 galvo nipples, 1 1/4 union, 1 1/4 threaded ball valve, 50-100' of thick plastic pipe sleeve or fire hose. Install 2 nipples on the valve with a union on one with another nipple one the other end of the union. Hose clamp your sleeve/hose onto the union end. If you need to drain a huge tank in a hurry, pull the lower element from the hydro locked heater with shop vac on and in hand(assuming the heater hasn't already flooded the place or there is no heater pan w/ working drain) to catch the little bit of water and thread your valve on(in the off position). Attach your hose via the union and let'er rip. Drains way faster than a heater pump and never needs impeller replacements or electricity(not so good at draining up hill though). If you have a heater in an attic or on a stand and don't have a helper to get it down: pull one or both elements and cut horizontally until you've cut it in halve. You'll need a good sawzall and a quality course metal blade. Take it down in pieces. __________________ Plumber, Repiping, Replumbing, Leak Detection, Solar Water Heater, Drain Cleaner, Pipe Leak, Polk County Plumber, Lakeland Plumber, Winter Haven Plumber, Haines City Plumber, Bartow Plumber

11-20-2008, 01:55 PM	#47
Protech ٩(͡๏̯͡๏)۶ Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Polk County, Florida Posts: 7,167 My Photos	Sewer call customer training kit: 1 - 5 gallon bucket 1 - 1 gallon bucket 1 gallon of part “a” marine foam 1 gallon of part "b" marine foam Funnel (optional) step 1. After failing to receive payment for cabling/jetting services retrieve kit from truck and mix "a" and "b" thoroughly in 5 gallon bucket. step 2. Dispense in appropriate location(s). Replace cleanout caps and traps if applicable. step 3. After returning home, open beer of choice and consume. Log onto PZ and share with experience with friends. __________________ Plumber, Repiping, Replumbing, Leak Detection, Solar Water Heater, Drain Cleaner, Pipe Leak, Polk County Plumber, Lakeland Plumber, Winter Haven Plumber, Haines City Plumber, Bartow Plumber

11-21-2008, 01:53 AM	#49
DUNBAR PLUMBING www.DunbarPlumbing.com Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NORTHERN KENTUCKY - GREATER CINCINNATI AREA Posts: 4,495 My Photos	Here's one I did just tonight: Drilled in two hose bibbs and when I went to drill the holes in the brick/mortar on this 100 year old historic home, it all went to powder when I drilled. So...knowing even those adaptor kits to go wider to hit something solid wouldn't even work, I went inside the house where I drilled through the band joist to get these in (18" hose bibbs) and drove copper wedges in to lock the bibbs in place, then took a piece of 3/4" copper and hammered flat spots where it would lay on top of the copper tubes of the hose bibbs, sandclothed the tops where the flat piece of copper would lay, fluxed them up and soldered that pipe on top of the two hose bibbs, right against the band joist. Between driving those copper wedges into those close tolerance holes along with that copper tube running across both of them, against the wood, nothing is going to let those bibbs pull out at this point. There are other options I could of taken doing a board on the outside or large piece of aluminum plate, but the way I've done this from inside? No signs on the outside that there was ever a problem. The customer was very impressed with my idea and how it fixed the problem instantly with no chance of breaking free. I trust my solder joints completely. I just told him to NEVER leave a hose hooked to these in the winter, it'll cost him big time. I made fun of the plumbing in his house before I left, shouldn't do that before I get paid. __________________ Northern Kentucky Plumbers *\|YOUTUBE VIDEOS\| Twitter Feed \| DUNBAR PLUMBING FAN PAGE*

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11-19-2008, 09:28 PM	#43
ROTOR KING Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 135 My Photos	Personally when ever i see silicone around a joint gives me the sighn of a plumber admitting defeat to a crap product.

11-19-2008, 09:40 PM	#44
pzmember Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 383 My Photos	TIP FOR DEALING W/ A CUSTOMER THAT WONT PAY. 1. WAIT UNTIL MIDNIGHT. 2. LOCATE CUSTOMERS CURBSTOP. 3. REMOVE LID. 4. INSERT WATER KEY. 5. SHUT OFF CURB STOP. 6. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET DRY CONCRETE MIX. 7. ADD 1 GALLON BUCKET OF WATER. 8. REPLACE LID AND YOUR DONE.