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Old 03-13-2010, 11:50 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisConnor View Post
Why not rectorseal 5?
too thin
Also if someone who is unaware puts it on ABS C/O's the fitting will crack.
What do you guys use #5 on?
not allowed on material utilizing petrolium base.
Our gas purveyors guys disslike it,say it clogs regs.I used to use it before I had some problems with a bunch of regulators on a medium gas.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:58 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtyhands View Post
too thin
Also if someone who is unaware puts it on ABS C/O's the fitting will crack.
What do you guys use #5 on?
not allowed on material utilizing petrolium base.
Our gas purveyors guys disslike it,say it clogs regs.I used to use it before I had some problems with a bunch of regulators on a medium gas.
I don't use it, but I forgot the name of Megaloc.

We don't use abs down here. PVC is king, but there were a bunch of houses plumbed with ABS back in the sixties. About the only thing you see ABS on here is mobile homes.
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Old 03-14-2010, 12:40 AM   #213
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i use blue majic. i always apply it to the female threads too. Pretty much stops the leaks
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:09 AM   #214
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I've had 40' of head pressure on cast iron multiple times,casting defects are frustrating.
Inspection is usually next day and I either wouldn't have time to get the replacement fitting from the supply house or it would be a total PITA dissassemble,maybe both.
I have a chunk of tar on the truck that I either get from the roofer or hot mopper.
After I lower the water level below the sandhole The fitting gets heated up with a torch just enough to melt tar into defect.Haven't been beaten yet.
Cracks are another story.Gotta yank-em'
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:34 PM   #215
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Thread Split.

draining-out-water-heater-thread-8111/
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Old 03-21-2010, 11:10 AM   #216
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I had to install a lav faucet on a laminate top that was built up, and it had a special undermount (yes, undermount on laminate) bowl.

The faucet had threaded shanks, and they were barely protruding through the countertop. Not enough to install the nuts, and the supply lines.

I would usually use a hole saw to enlarge to lower layer of substrate, and tighten the nuts to the upper layer, but could not do that on this one.

I had some large O.D. (2" or so) thin galvanized sheet metal washers, (roofers use them to screw down insulation on flat roofs) I enlarged the holes with a uni-bit, and was able to tighten the nuts enough to suck the washer and nut up into the substrate, enough to get the risers on.
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Old 03-21-2010, 12:54 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUNBAR PLUMBING View Post
Pushed a drop ceiling panel and dust got into my eye, started burning instantly.

Took my bottle of water and removed the cap, put it right to my eye and squeezed the bottle.

Flushed my eye out quickly,

Wear Safety glasses!
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Old 03-21-2010, 05:27 PM   #218
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Quote:
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I had to install a lav faucet on a laminate top that was built up, and it had a special undermount (yes, undermount on laminate) bowl.

The faucet had threaded shanks, and they were barely protruding through the countertop. Not enough to install the nuts, and the supply lines.

I would usually use a hole saw to enlarge to lower layer of substrate, and tighten the nuts to the upper layer, but could not do that on this one.

I had some large O.D. (2" or so) thin galvanized sheet metal washers, (roofers use them to screw down insulation on flat roofs) I enlarged the holes with a uni-bit, and was able to tighten the nuts enough to suck the washer and nut up into the substrate, enough to get the risers on.
They make extensions for lav faucets with 1/2" IPS shanks, that work perfect for thick counter tops. Looks like a long 1/2" brass nipple, that is threaded the whole way, & 1/2" FIP on one end, to screw onto the shanks, & extend them. My supply house here, stocks them.
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:47 AM   #219
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Thanks. I have also robbed the ones that come with the 1/4 turn washer boxes. We were on a job in the sticks, and no supply house close by, so I had to improvise.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:16 PM   #220
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