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Old 12-09-2009, 07:22 PM   #1
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Default Lifting a water heater

I need to lift a 75 gal. gas w/h up and out to replace a drain pan that was damaged during the orig. Install. The 30" pan is wall to wall and up on a 2x4 on edge platform in a closet. The back wall backs up to the attic space and I have an idea. There was water damage from a T&P discharging into the leaking pan. It's a thermal expansion issue we are taking care of and a service co. is there to make damage repairs. I was considering bull heading (2) - 11/2 x 11/2 x 1 tees on the w/h nipples and passing 1" steel pipe through slots in the drywall into the attic so we could lift the w/h straight up and walk it out without hitting the pan. Give me some input about lifting from the w/h nipples. (1")

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Old 12-09-2009, 07:38 PM   #2
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I need to lift a 75 gal. gas w/h up and out to replace a drain pan that was damaged during the orig. Install. The 30" pan is wall to wall and up on a 2x4 on edge platform in a closet. The back wall backs up to the attic space and I have an idea. There was water damage from a T&P discharging into the leaking pan. It's a thermal expansion issue we are taking care of and a service co. is there to make damage repairs. I was considering bull heading (2) - 11/2 x 11/2 x 1 tees on the w/h nipples and passing 1" steel pipe through slots in the drywall into the attic so we could lift the w/h straight up and walk it out without hitting the pan. Give me some input about lifting from the w/h nipples. (1")
If your water heater is jammed up between two walls that means you have support for a wench in the attic. I invision a couple 2x12's screwed together with a wench mounted to them long enough to span between the two walls in the attic. Make up your rig with the iron pipe your talking about and attach the wench cable to it. You could do that job by yourself
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:41 PM   #3
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If your water heater is jammed up between two walls that means you have support for a wench in the attic. I invision a couple 2x12's screwed together with a wench mounted to them long enough to span between the two walls in the attic. Make up your rig with the iron pipe your talking about and attach the wench cable to it. You could do that job by yourself
More info.... it is on the 2nd floor. The ceiling is the roof! No attic space above. Just behind it.

Last edited by SlickRick; 12-09-2009 at 07:43 PM..
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:49 PM   #4
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More info.... it is on the 2nd floor. The ceiling is the roof! No attic space above. Just behind it.
Ah damn. Sounds like you have the best plan since you've seen it with your eyes. Lifting it from the nipples wouldn't hurt it.......that sounds funny
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:55 PM   #5
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Just make sure you have twisted the nipples enough to where you can lift by the nipples.
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Old 12-09-2009, 07:59 PM   #6
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If you can get into the attic behind it, why not span a couple of studs with a 2 x 4, or 2 x 6, horizontally. Put 2) 1" couplings on the nipples, with 6" nipples as risers, then 90's, and nipples and a union to connect the risers. Use a 2 x 4 under the horiz union, to the horiz brace on the studs. Use it as a lever, to lift the wh. Slip the old pan out, and the new one in. You don't have to take the wh out of the closet.

Second idea. You can screw the 2 by into the studs from the front (closet side) Double them up to make them 3" thick, for added bearing for the lever. You dont have to go into the attic, or put a hole in the wall board (plaster?)
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:10 PM   #7
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Talking hire a couple of gorillas for the day

you need to hire a couple of big dumb gorillas for the day labor and simply pull it out and re-install it


that is not a job I would relish....



on a more personal note..

I have been trying to envision a tool

it needs to be part floor jack and part forklift

the person that devises a tool to lift a 50 and 40 gallon heater up 24 inches and roll it over
a couple of concrete blocks or onto water heater stand and simply let it down easy into place
will make a million dollars, cause I will
buy one of them...

anyone have any ideas here....


I think I will start a new thread on this subject
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:14 PM   #8
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I imagine the problem with doing anything from in front of the water heater would be in your way while you tried to replace the pan.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:17 PM   #9
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If you can get into the attic behind it, why not span a couple of studs with a 2 x 4, or 2 x 6, horizontally. Put 2) 1" couplings on the nipples, with 6" nipples as risers, then 90's, and nipples and a union to connect the risers. Use a 2 x 4 under the horiz union, to the horiz brace on the studs. Use it as a lever, to lift the wh. Slip the old pan out, and the new one in. You don't have to take the wh out of the closet.

Second idea. You can screw the 2 by into the studs from the front (closet side) Double them up to make them 3" thick, for added bearing for the lever. You dont have to go into the attic, or put a hole in the wall board (plaster?)
That is an idea. I could screw a 2x4 the width of the closet on the inside back wall of the closet @ 4" higher than the top of the heater. Lift the heater and slide a step ladder under the lever and rest it on a rung while I replace the pan. Leave the 2x4 screwed to the wall for next time and paint if necessary.
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:22 PM   #10
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Drill a hole in the freakin roof and use a wench then patch the 3/8" hole.
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