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#11 | |
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Super pex man
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Yeah, but not when the bladder fails and then goes unnoticed for 10 years.
The pressure relief valves are adjustable. You just set them 10 pounds above the static pressure or at 75psi. The pressure WILL NOT go above 80psi. As far as one failing closed.......I don't think so. It's not mounted on a steel tank like a t/p so I don't see any galvanic fouling happening. As long as the thing is installed with a down hill drain nothing is going to get clogged in the spring ether. Impossible no, highly improbable yes. Quote:
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#12 | ||
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Certifiable Lunatic
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Quote:
The initial pressure control on the system here would be a PRV we have hills and pressure variations... The thermal expansion tank would be piped on the cold side providing the thermal expansion protection with a temp range of 35-70 feeding the water heater... The T&P providing safety only...
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#13 | |
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Super pex man
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Let me suppose the following then to make it clear:
You have a house at the bottom of a hill with a street pressure of 175psi. You have a PRV at the main regulating it down to 60psi. You have a bladder tank on the heater inlet. The bladder goes bad. No one knows since homey doesn't check his pressure on a regular basis. Thermal expansion causes the pressure to shoot up to 150psi. A toilet supply line bursts from the high pressure flooding the house. The end. Quote:
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
That little drip going through your valve can clog it up,its small compared to a 3/4 valve. Thats another reason why they dont want the pipe size reduced on a 3/4 t&P valve because if it dribbles on and off for along time it can close itself off and then all you may need is a sticking thermostat for the consitions to start getting right for the fireworks. The way I see it atleast we both are doing somthing to control the problem and I have no real proof other than I've seen T&P valves hold 200# and over from thermal exspansion and I even replaced the T&P and did another test and it held too for about 15 minutes before it started to dribble.
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"Small time Hack making Big time Jack" |
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#15 | ||
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Certifiable Lunatic
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Quote:
![]() T&P opens venting just like your relief valve would
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#16 |
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Super pex man
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Lets try that again with a relief valve instead of a tank:
You have a house at the bottom of a hill with a street pressure of 175psi. You have a PRV at the main regulating it down to 60psi. You have a pressure relief valve set to go off at 75psi on the heater inlet. The valve goes bad. Homey ether notices the big puddle of water at the relief drain and calls the plumber out to check things out OR homey gets a high water bill and call the plumber out to check things out. Plumber replaces the valve and checks out the PRV as well. Plumber gets paid. The house is not flooded. The end ![]() |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Protech For This Useful Post: | JERRYMAC (03-10-2010) |
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#17 |
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Super pex man
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Fine, you get lucky and there are no cheap supply lines in the house. Fixtures all start failing prematurely and/or a ball cock shears at the threads or a laundry hose bursts. Or any number of other bad cenarios.
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#18 | ||
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Certifiable Lunatic
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Quote:
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Redwood For This Useful Post: | JERRYMAC (03-10-2010) |
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#19 | ||
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Certifiable Lunatic
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Quote:
I'm just saying... A relief valve in a ballcock isn't the brightest idea ever hatched... It is to easily circumvented by replacing a ballcock with one that doesn't have that feature... ![]()
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Redwood For This Useful Post: | gusty60 (02-07-2010), service guy (03-09-2010) |
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#20 |
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Super pex man
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I'm with ya 100% there.
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