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#1 | |
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Certifiable Lunatic
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I'm wondering if any of you have ever run across one of these...
http://www.watts.com/pdf/S-GOV80.pdf They are a ballcock that has an 80-psi relief valve installed and are marketed as a solution for thermal expansion in a closed system. I've never seen one until the other day when I was at the Watts website getting some info links for a thermal expansion discussion here. It looks like a case where if you did run across one of these changing a ballcock that wasn't leaking could upset the apple cart and start a T&P discharging. I can't say that I'm a fan of using pressure relief to control thermal expansions effects and I would naturally lean towards installing a tank but, I just wanted to give everyone a heads up on this product... ![]()
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#2 |
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MASTER PLUMBER
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They've been out for years.
Wasteful product when it comes to water usage. |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to DUNBAR PLUMBING For This Useful Post: | Redwood (02-06-2010), service guy (03-09-2010) |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
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"Small time Hack making Big time Jack" |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TheMaster For This Useful Post: | Redwood (02-06-2010) |
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#4 | |
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Super pex man
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Why would a tank be better than a valve? A valve fails open while a tank fails closed. If a bladder goes out on a tank and there is now no control for thermal expansion, something could burst causing massive property damage. If a valve goes bad an starts dripping, the plumber gets called out to replace it and check for other problems (if he's worth a damn that is).
As far as water usage with a relief valve goes, it's sutch a small amount that it's negligable. Small price to pay if you are guaranteed not to have an over pressure condition. I stick to my $5 relief valves thank you. Quote:
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#5 |
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ex-apprentice
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I don't like em. HO keeps hearing the WC runl. What are they gonna do? They will march right to homie and buy a 400a.
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Whatever it is, I'm over-qualified
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#7 | ||
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Certifiable Lunatic
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And with a properly functioning thermal expansion tank there is zero discharge.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
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I dont think a relief valve acts quick enough. I've personally seen new 150# temp and pressure relief valves hold over 200 psi. They finally open but they are slow to act.
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"Small time Hack making Big time Jack" |
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#9 | |
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Super pex man
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I've seen plenty of supply lines, as well as plastic pipes burst below 150psi. Most codes stat that the T/P "shall not be used as a means of thermal expansion control".
Also, those tanks provide a nice warm, stagnant, iron ritch environment for Legionella and other nasty bugs to grow Quote:
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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I consider the valves you use protech what they are a pressure relief valve however even tho they are adjustable I dont fell like they act quick enough. So the pressure might go up above the set point.....no good,plus they dont always fail open. They dribble water and can clogg up over time just like a t&P valve can do. The tank will control the pressure smoothly while the other may pop off below or above the ideal set point. The water in the tanks not stagnant it exchanges when/if the pressure builds and is released. The tank can be remotely located on the cold water line....it doesn't hafta be at the heater,but I pipe them in between the water heaters stop valve and the water heater.
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"Small time Hack making Big time Jack" Last edited by TheMaster; 02-06-2010 at 06:23 PM. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to TheMaster For This Useful Post: | Redwood (02-06-2010) |
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