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Old 06-07-2013, 06:25 PM   #11
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The kitchen guys always give us strainers with threads for a nut. Being that we aren't getting paid to supply the strainers so long as it will pass we put it what we are given.

What we are allowed to do is use tubular brass extra heavy (I forget the gauge) tailpieces coming off the strainers then schedule 40 PVC to the floor sink. They just started allowing the PVC about two years ago.
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Old 06-12-2013, 03:38 AM   #12
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I use 1-1/2" or 2" No Hub Bands right on the threads of the strainer. Works like a champ every time and is especially effective when you have to offset the indirect waste tight to the sink.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWBII View Post
Rotary drains aren't happening. Drains are supplied by the kitchen equipment guys so I get to work with what's supplied. No biggie to me, just wanted to see what all advice you guys had to offer
I would refuse to install their ghetto sink strainers, they're not what the job requires. Either use rotary strainers or go get Kohler brass basket strainers. At least if you have to use a basket strainer the Kohler has real threads that a female adapter will screw on to. Anything else will be a call back for you later. Unless you run all three bays indirect. You should only have to run the sanitize bay indirect though. Ive been through exactly the same scenario before myself.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:45 AM   #14
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I use 1 1/2" copper FIP's on regular basket strainers sometimes. On vegie sinks and prep sinks that's usually what you get from the kitchen equipment supplier. I've seen lots of flanged tailpiece into trap adapter type set ups. They always fall apart.
You have to file down the first few threads on the FIP. It's a solid connection and I've had no leaks.
Never done it on a three compartment though. All the three compartment sinks I've done have had the commercial strainers with 2" male and 1 1/2" female.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:51 PM   #15
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Let me back up. My title should have been different. The three compartments are actually perfect for a change. The fip will thread right onto the threads without a problem. The last ones I did were regular strainers and the threads would barely go on which is why I wanted to ask before I got started.

The 1 1/2 one however is a standard strainer where the threads will barely work. I don't have the option of just refusing to do what they want nor to just use what I want. This isn't my company and if it results in a call back that won't be my fault. I don't want to use flanged with compression as I do feel they will fall off. I never thought about the no hub idea.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWBII View Post
Let me back up. My title should have been different. The three compartments are actually perfect for a change. The fip will thread right onto the threads without a problem. The last ones I did were regular strainers and the threads would barely go on which is why I wanted to ask before I got started.

The 1 1/2 one however is a standard strainer where the threads will barely work. I don't have the option of just refusing to do what they want nor to just use what I want. This isn't my company and if it results in a call back that won't be my fault. I don't want to use flanged with compression as I do feel they will fall off. I never thought about the no hub idea.
Well I guess just load up the threads with blueblock. First thing I do when I have to install one of those sinks is throw the three crummy stamped $5 strainers in the garbage. And say it never came with any if someone asks.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWBII View Post
Let me back up. My title should have been different. The three compartments are actually perfect for a change. The fip will thread right onto the threads without a problem. The last ones I did were regular strainers and the threads would barely go on which is why I wanted to ask before I got started.

The 1 1/2 one however is a standard strainer where the threads will barely work. I don't have the option of just refusing to do what they want nor to just use what I want. This isn't my company and if it results in a call back that won't be my fault. I don't want to use flanged with compression as I do feel they will fall off. I never thought about the no hub idea.


On those types of threads I will take the female adapter and heat it up and it will thread right on to the basket strainer no problems.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:48 AM   #18
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Most 3 compartment sinks come with cheap basket strainers. I always throw them out and use rotary drains for commercial applications. Or I will use double cups for bargain jobs.

You can't fit a square peg in a little round hole.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:00 AM   #19
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Inspectors in Seattle are usually fine with 1.5" no hub bands connecting standard strainers to schedule 40 abs. Pretty easy to disassemble and clean.
If they're stop and waste style strainers, it seems that more cop dwv is spec'd out, we use a 2" fip that works pretty well, then if a grease interceptor is to be installed , it's vented and tied into the sanitary. If none then all the compartments are indirect into the floor sink with a cleanout at the first compartment upstream. Love seeing them direct connected, clogged, and no way to get a snake in the line.... Not.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:26 PM   #20
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the way that i have done this what you are talking about i believe is to take brass flanged tailpiece and sweat them inside of 1 1/2 " copper if you are going to do dwv copper. Plastic I take a copper pencil reamer and ream the top of a 1 1/2 pvc female and thread it on if they are cheap basket strainers hope this helps
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